Below a Cap d’Agde review for you to digest!
We left home (close to Milan) at two in the afternoon on Friday, hoping to be ahead of the holiday traffic, forecast as ‘black’ for the first time ever, with ‘red’ being the worst normally expected. Very close friends of ours left home at 2.30 on Saturday morning and found themselves in stationary traffic as soon as they got onto the motorway 10 minutes later, as so many people had had the same idea of leaving ‘when everyone else is still in bed’.
After a good night’s sleep in the last services before Cap d’Agde we did the early morning drive along the beach road from Sete, beautiful with the sun coming up, and we got into the Naturist Quarter by 8.15, ready for the wait for the Rene Oltra reception to open at 9. The wife sat in the camper, as we were potentially making it hard for other campers to get in and out of the small car park, and after I’d checked us in I ran down to see our pitch before driving in.
Aaaaargh! Out of around two thousand pitches, we’d been given one which was cramped, muddy and right next to the high wall of a toilet block, a very short straw as the campsite is generally great. That was why it was the only pitch not in the far corner still available in early June when we booked.
Last year we had had just 4 days at Cap and loved it, particularly the contrast between the laid back campsite and the heady atmosphere in the town, which we only saw in the evening, never venturing in during the day. By the way, maybe some of you, like us, tend to think of Cap d’Agde being the naturist part you know or have read about, but in fact, it’s a big sprawling development of which the naturist part is but a little corner. We found this out when we took the bus into Agde on a dull morning.
It was a Monday, and the roundabout ride in traffic took an hour and a half. Agde wasn’t up to much in our opinion, so we wouldn’t recommend going.
Once again we’d planned long days on the beach followed by let’s take it as they come evenings in the town.
We felt immediately that there were more people on the beach this year than last, with the epicentre of the couples’ beach looking really busy and so we took a spot by the water’s edge, the best spot for watching the world go by.
We enjoyed the long walks up and down the shoreline and we saw quite a few people we’d met last year, of all ages and the beach was as good as ever. The sea was as cold as last year, thanks to the Tramontana, the dry offshore wind which a least keeps you from sweating during the day.
One of the good things about the campsite is that when you leave the beach you can go straight into the showers and just stroll back to your pitch. The showers are all mixed no doorknobs so perhaps be aware of this in case it is an issue for you.
Our pitch was in an area of residential caravans populated by friendly French couples who played boules from 8 to 8. We used to go for early morning skates around the site, as some of the Allées are asphalted and around a Kilometer long so we could do a good number of circuits, enjoying that early morning quiet typical of all campsites. Allée D is the greenest and has some permanent plots where the residents have beautifully-groomed gardens.
Our evenings in the town this year were mainly a bit of shopping and then a drink and a dance at Eros. They are almost all clothes shops, and let’s say 75% of them sell the same sort of stuff. You can find bargains and the same item can have very different prices in two shops just 20 metres apart. You can find jeans hot pants for €10, and pole dancing type shoes at around €75. You’ll find cheap sunglasses, some attractive costume jewellery, piercing jewellery and some men’s clothes.
There’s a higher quality ladies ‘clothes’ shop just past Melrose on the left, and that’s where my wife found a beautiful black velvet dress. Wearing the dress my wife wore it that night in Eros for a dance or two (we know many people prefer Melrose but we prefer Eros). You can get to Eros without running the gauntlet of the passageway outside the Melrose by going around the outside. The Melrose passageway is often very crowded and it can be a bit too busy for some people.
Walking from the far end of the campsite to the centre takes around 15 minutes, enough to hurt your feet if you are in stilettos (normally the women that is), so we took a little bag with flat sandals in, which the wife wore at least for the walk back.